Silk Scarves · The reference collection

Silk, understood through its weave.

A fabric vocabulary for the eye and the hand: what the names mean, and why they change the way a scarf is worn.

The fibre is only the beginning

Silk names the fibre. Weave describes how threads are interlaced; weight tells you something else again. Two scarves labelled 100% silk can therefore look and behave quite differently. Begin with the effect you want, then read the construction.

PlainTwillSatin
Schematic weave studies: plain, a 2/1 twill and a five-end satin. Enlarged teaching diagrams, not fabric photographs.

Compare two fabrics

Choose a pair to bring their definitions and wearing considerations together. All six entries remain available below.

Six terms to know

Silk twill

A weave with diagonal ribs.

In a wardrobe
Often chosen for a square with a defined fold.
Look closer
Look along the diagonal structure; judge weight separately.

Silk satin

A weave with floats that create a reflective face.

In a wardrobe
For a fluid, luminous accent.
Look closer
Satin describes construction. Check the fibre label for silk.

Silk chiffon

A light, sheer fabric made with fine twisted yarns in a plain weave.

In a wardrobe
For transparency and a light, loose drape.
Look closer
See it over the clothes it will accompany; the background affects the colour.

Crêpe de Chine

A silk fabric whose tightly twisted weft yarns contribute to its character.

In a wardrobe
For fluidity with a subtler surface than a glossy satin.
Look closer
Compare the actual weight and handle: the name covers different weights.

Habotai

A lightweight silk fabric also used for linings and hand painting.

In a wardrobe
For a light accent or a painted silk square.
Look closer
A lighter cloth is not automatically an inferior one.

Jacquard

A method of controlling weaving to make complex woven patterns.

In a wardrobe
For an image or motif carried by the structure of the cloth.
Look closer
Jacquard is not a fibre, and a jacquard fabric can also be printed.

Read momme in context

Momme expresses fabric weight relative to area. It does not measure artistry, print execution or the quality of an edge. Compare it within similar fabrics, then consider the scarf as a finished object. Our full quality reference explains the distinction in greater depth.

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